My top 5 favorite street food experiences in Thailand
Travelogue Vol. 1
Besides the usual suspects of street food - Moo Ping (Grilled Pork), Somtum (Papaya Salad) or Khao Mun Gai (Chicken & rice), I want to introduce to you more of our street food culture with some rare items that might not yet well known. Here are my wonderful experiences that I can’t wait for you to try.
Working a wok with Jay Fai
I am blessed to be one of the few to get permission to hold Jay Fai’s wok! So, I have to brag about it :) I don’t think she needs me to vouch for her: she is a superstar, Michelin-starred street food chef, a legend, and an inspirational woman. Her food discipline and determination is sublime. It was wonderful to meet her, cook with her, and eat her food. Everytime I’m in Bangkok, I try to go there to say hi and get well fed (for both my tummy and my soul).
My Jay Fai recommendations:
Joke Hang โจ๊กแห้ง – Dried congee. Ok, in English, it doesn’t sound so appealing, does it? But please, don’t let the description stop you, it’s soooooo delicious and one of her specialties that international press don’t talk much about.
Tom Yum ต้มยำ
Scrambled eggs with crab ไข่เจียวปู
Eating Kanom Jeen, communal style
This is a must for all of you to try! Kanom Jeen is a rice vermicelli noodle, found all over Thailand, but the toppings will change depending on the region.
The first Kanom Jeen stall I recommend is in Chiang Mai, more or less under the bridge between Warorot market and Ton Lumyai market, and the seating area is on the Ton Lumyai market side, closer to the river (I have included the location below).
Here, you get to not only taste authentic northern Thai flavors, but also sit with others on a small communal stoop, and all without breaking the bank! It'll probably cost you about 100 Baht or 3-4 US dollars per person. All you have to do is pick the topping and enjoy! The portions are not too big so you can try a variety of toppings. Just be prepared to share them with your fellow diners on the stoop!
Here are my recommendations:
Nam Ngiaw น้ำเงี้ยว – imagine Italian spaghetti bolognese with extra pork neck, baby ribs and pork, or chicken blood cubes (don’t let the description scare you, it’s really delicious!). I love having it with extra bean sprouts, crispy pork skin, lime and fried chilis.
Nam Ya น้ำยา – red curry-based dish with fish and sometimes with extra fish balls. It pairs so well with boiled eggs, chopped green beans and lemon basil (Bai Mang Luck).
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/bCt8g7v5XRqUGNMz6?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy
Another wonderful Kanom Jeen stall is in Chumphon Province, in a small fishing village called Pathio, about two hours south of Hua Hin.
The morning market there is very charming and still untouched. You don’t see many tourists and you will still get a sense of the local’s traditional lifestyle. This small place serves southern style curry and it holds a very special place in my hungry heart.
Try Kanom Jeen Nam Ya Pooh (Crab curry) ขนมจีนน้ำยาปู or Kanom Jeen Ghang Tai Pla (Southern Thai spicy fish curry) ขนมจีนแกงไตปลา.
Walking through night markets and getting food!
Markets are part of Thai lifestyle. There are morning markets, midday markets, night markets, all-day markets, weekend markets and floating markets!
Each place has its own specialty and they are always satisfying to visit. It’s easy to get overwhelmed, so let’s start with two must-try night markets.
Yaowarat or Bangkok Chinatown. Did you know that Thailand has the biggest Chinese population outside of China? And I have to say, one of my favorite places to eat Chinese food is in my motherland!
A trip to Yaowarat was always a BIG treat for me when I lived in Bangkok. You can find everything here. I mean EVERYTHING, from fresh fruit to seafood, rice, bread etc etc. It’s a mix of Thai and Chinese cultures. Most importantly, pace yourself and enjoy the experience. I love Kuay Jub Nam Sai ก๋วยจั๊บน้ำใส: the broth is incredible and it makes the rolled noodles and crispy pork shine through. If you love offal, that will make the whole bowl complete.
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/B9ySb8ue2N7JgU5F9?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy
I also would like to encourage you to get all the fresh fruit, the durian, rose apples, mangoes and more! There will be carts everywhere, with and without wheels, for you to try: you can’t miss them.
If you are in Thailand during durian season, pluck up your courage and try coconut durian rice pudding (ข้าวเหนียวน้ำกะทิทุเรียน). It consists of luscious fresh durian, served atop coconut sticky rice with a coconut cream dressing. So good!
Lastly, try steamed buns – oh-so-soft, and with luscious flavors in every bite. The buns are steamed or grilled and the highlight has to be the fillings. There are many varieties of them, but my favorite would be the pandan custard (สังขยาใบเตย). There will be a long queue but be patient. It will be worth the wait!
Changpuak Night market, Chiang Mai. This market fed me from when I was a kid, and throughout my college days, when I attended Chiang Mai University.
Now, this spot is packed with tourists from around the world, after being featured in lots of international media outlets. How cool is that!
I love Suki Changpuak ( the name of the cart). Suki is a Chinese-inspired Thai dish, with cabbage, glass noodles and the protein of your choice (shrimp, pork, chicken or all of them) and seasoned with fermented bean curd. There are no fixed rules, we are Thai, and quite Sabai Sabai (relaxed) when it comes to ordering food to your liking. The stall will always try to accommodate you and, if they can’t, they will be very polite about it! I would always finish off my meal with Tao Huay Nahm Khing (sweetened tofu with ginger broth). What a wonderful memory! It’s a small market with lots of stalls, so It’s easy to walk around, and pick and choose what you want. It’s an open air market so, while you are eating, you will see cars and motorcycles passing by. However, on a rainy day, you have to opt for take out instead. C’est la vie!
Off the street showmanship with Pad Pak Bung Loi Fah ผักบุ้งลอยฟ้า
This is so much fun, and whoever came up with the idea is a genius! The chef starts by creating a big fire in his wok (that’s why this dish is sometimes called Pad Pak Bung Fai Dang, which means “red fire morning glory stir-fry”), then he will flip and throw the vegetables in a wok across the street for his teammate to pick up on a plate!
All of that happens in front of your table, and it’s such a fun show.
*Starts around min 3.12
And if you want to make it at home here is the recipe 👇🏼
It’s a simple stir-fry dish that always holds my wonderful memory of a street food experience in Thailand, but you can easily make it at home!
Chilling at the beach, with seafood, spicy dipping and fresh young coconut water
Thailand hosts the most beautiful beaches in the world and, in my opinion, the way we cook seafood is the sassiest!
Because eating and gathering is a BIG DEAL for us Thais, you will find carts, hawkers, and vendors with huge baskets, walking up and down the beach, looking to serve you food.
The vendors will make, to order, Som Tum papaya salad with flavors of your choice. So if you tell them “I like it sweeter and less sour”, they will reply “yes madam/mister!” and make it fresh, right there in front of you.
And once you’ve got your salad, a lady will walk by selling grilled calamari, with a delicious spicy dipping sauce made from her secret recipe.
Just sit and enjoy the sun and sea. The food will come to you!
Note: These experiences are at touristy beach such as Bang San, Pattaya and Hua Hin.
Curious to learn more? Dive into Episode 4 of Sabai Talk Podcast, where we discuss must-have items, do’s and don’ts, the challenges Thailand faces with street food, and much more. Don't miss out!